3/11/2023 0 Comments Lfilter wechsel![]() Now I have seen the difference: When I use a microscop lens (10x) on that camera with that broken original filter I see clearly the structure of the cracks in the image. To my utter disbelief I could not see any difference to my normal unmodified camera in the picture - but I have to do some further testing to verify that. I went on with the grinding, to make some tests with that filter, even though it was broken. The original IR-Cut filter that was in the camera was not easy to grind down. If I had more problems with that, I would have to attach some kind of spring, or simply a piece of tape.ĭuring this work, and all the changing of the filters, I touched the shutter more than 100 times with the glas - but still it works without problems. I did the grinding that narrowly, that the filter stays in place alone due to the friction - mostly. The mirror joint is on the same level, so I had to grind the filter to fit it in. The filter is located in a hollow in front of the shutter. The IR-mark on the distance ring of the lenses is ok.Īs you can see here, the quality of my glass-work is not that professional - but there are no dents or so visible in the pictures: The filter is 2.3 mm thick, so the focus shift is minimal. Recently I have modified the B&W 093 filter for my EOS 350D / Rebel XT - it works very well. This didn't trouble me, because I work mainly with manual lenses. The AF of the camera is gone - the AF submirror stays in the wrong place for his work. If the filters are prepared, I need less than one minute for the exchange of the filters. In case the subjects found are better captured with an other filter you can carry the filters along and exchange them easily. You insert the needed filter for the kind of photographic work you want to do and go out for the photographic trip. The last two options with the grey filter might be difficult with the IR light in the illumination light, probably some kind of IR-Cut (Schneider Kreuznach 486) in front of the lens or in front of the mirror (with focus shift) is needed.Īll the options result in working with a bright viewfinder - no need to remove the filter for composing the image. a 8x grey filter for work with lenses 1.4 or 2.0 with studio flashes in a small home studio a 1000x grey filter for extremely long exposure times (done) a Red filter like the Rodenstock 29 (done) a clear glas for the whole spectrum the camera can see (done) ![]() a UV-pass, visible block, for ultraviolett photography a 665, 695 or 715 nm filter for colour IR photography (done) a deep IR filter like the 830 nm filter for black and white IR photography (done) the removed original filter with a bit of modification for normal visible work (done) If I grind the filters into the correct shape, I have the option of using with one IR camera different filters for different photographic tasks: The fourth step - this is my new way to use the same DSLR camera with different filters: I put the glass filters directly in front of the shutter! It worked, but the focussing was a problem. The third step were some tests with that Kodak Wratten thin foil filter. ![]() The next step was to remove the original IR-Cut filter which is located inside the camera between shutter and sensor.įor this I used the good descriptions from Ashley Roeckelein and Lifepixel.īut I put no new filter instead of that removed IR-Cut inside the camera!īy the way: The original IR-Cut filter measures 28.02 x 22.07 x 2.46 mm at my camera. This caused a small defocus, and I had some problems with marks in the gelantine.Īnd the long exposure times were the same - which I knew beforehand.īut the further steps were already planned. My first step was to place a Kodak Wratten 87 foil filter in front of the shutter! Furthermore I was not happy with all that filter changing - I lost my first 1000x greyfilter to a wild river. And with a small child to carry, one is happy to go out without a tripod. The work with filters in front of the lens was not that good, the exposure times of about 30 seconds are too long for experiments. It is the same with me, I have a Canon EOS 350D / Rebel XT, and a 5D. Or they can only afford to take / carry one DSLR into holiday. ![]() Perhaps it is the backup camera, and with an IR-filter buildt in, the camera is not a real backup for a normal camera. Some photographers aren´t sure, that they want to modify their camera at all. If they take a filter closer to the visible spectra, they may lose the opportunity to take more dramatic pictures. 850 nm) the IR-effect will be better, but they can't use that filter for color infrared photography. If they take one with a longer cut wavelength (e.g. Many photographers can´t decide which filter they should build into their modified IR-DSLR camera.
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